Section One: Rombalds Moor

There's a touch of magic in this ancient landscape. The wild open Rombalds Moor was first travelled by prehistoric settlers, who left their mark with the mysterious symbols you can still see carved into the rocks. 

Saltaire

A Dales High Way starts in Saltaire. Arrive by public transport if you can. It’s very easy as Leeds and Bradford railway stations are both less than 15 minutes away. Trains run twice hourly from each and the return journey on the Settle – Carlisle line will take you directly back to Leeds.

There is no accommodation in Saltaire itself but there are hotels, guest houses, b&bs and a campsite all close by and local taxis are inexpensive. There are plenty of shops, bars and restaurants in or near Saltaire and if you’ve forgotten anything you might need on your walk, Trek & Trail is situated inside Salts Mill.

Ilkley

Ilkley is half a mile from the route and a good choice for an overnight stay if you want a short first day. The elegant spa town is a popular tourist destination with plenty of accommodation, restaurants and shops. There’s the famous Bettys tearoom and the Michelin-starred Box Tree restaurant where Marco Pierre White trained but don’t worry – there’s something to suit every budget.

Visit the Manor House Museum if you can. It’s one of the oldest buildings in Ilkley and stands on the remains of the Roman fort of Olicana (or is it Verbeia?) as does All Saints Church next door. In the church tower stand the remains of three Saxon crosses. Information about the local moor can be found on The Friends of Ilkley Moor website.

Addingham

Addingham is about 12 miles from the start of the walk so it’s an option for your first overnight stay if you’ve continued past Ilkley. Before you reach the village there are three farmhouse b&bs, all close to the route at Addingham Moorside.

Addingham itself is an attractive former mill village with a long main street that boasts five pubs. It's worth taking the optional route through the village. It doesn't add to the mileage and you'll get a nice cup of coffee and avoid the noise of traffic from the busy main road. Look out for the ducks.

Skipton

Skipton is a lively, bustling market town which prides itself on being “The Gateway to the Dales”. You shouldn't have any trouble finding food or accommodation in Skipton. If you are there on a Monday, Wednesday, Friday or Saturday the wide main street is crammed with market stalls and is well worth a look.

Other attractions include Skipton Castle which is over 900 years old and one of the best preserved medieval castles in England, the Mart Theatre, the only theatre in a working auction mart in the UK and the traditional Plaza Cinema. The canal basin is in the centre of town and visitors can take boat trips on a traditional canal boat. Each year Skipton is the venue for the Skipton Waterway Festival, the largest annual meeting of canal boats in the north of England.

Section Two: Malhamdale

There is a dramatic and spectacular change in the landscape as you leave behind the Pennine moorland and head for the stunning limestone crags and scars of Malhamdale. 

Hetton

Hetton is the next possible stop after Skipton. The route passes the tiny hamlet of Flasby but we don’t know of any accommodation there. Hetton is home to the award-winning Angel Inn, a 500 year old inn with a reputation for Modern British dining and 5 luxury rooms in a barn conversion opposite. The Devonshire Arms is situated in the nearby village of Cracoe. Alternatively you could catch the Dales Bus back to Skipton.

Malham

Malham is a super place to stay. There are pubs and b&bs in the pretty village less than a mile and a half from the walk and a campsite right on route near Gordale Scar. Even if you don’t spend the night here, do walk up to Gordale Scar as its true scale and beauty is best seen up close. Malham Cove has been home to a pair of breeding Peregrine Falcons since 1993 and for the past few years a special viewpoint has been set up so that visitors can view these magnificent birds.

Settle

Settle is an attractive little market town with plenty of accommodation, shops and food. If you’ve stayed in Malham it may be a bit soon to stop for the night but it’s a good place for lunch and on a Tuesday there’s a lively market in the town square. You may like to visit the Museum of North Craven Life in the Folly or Settle Station where the Friends of the Settle-Carlisle line have restored the old signal box (open Saturdays or by arrangement). Alternatively you could continue walking along the banks of the River Ribble to Stainforth then catch the bus back into Settle to spend the night.

Section Three: Ingleborough

The mighty Ingleborough, with its iconic shape, defines this section. The route leads over the top of the Hollow Mountain before dropping into the quiet seclusion of Chapel-le-Dale. 

Stainforth

Stainforth Force is a series of lovely waterfalls where in October you can watch salmon leaping. There’s a campsite near the river and a few minutes walk away in the village of Stainforth a pub that does food and bed and breakfast.

Feizor

A couple of miles after Stainforth you’ll come to Feizor. If the refreshment sign at the farm says “Open”, stop – you’ll get the best mug of milky coffee you’ll find on the whole walk.

Horton-in-Ribblesdale

Horton-in-Ribblesdale is a popular base for walkers and the village has a campsite, bunkbarn and two pubs as well as Bed and Breakfast accommodation. Pen-y-ghent Cafe in the centre of the village is the traditional starting point for the Three Peaks Challenge Walk and the many walkers taking part in challenges can put accommodation in the village under pressure, especially at weekends in summer. Horton-in-Ribblesdale is two miles off route but a good place to stay if you want to take in Pen-y-ghent as well.

Chapel-le-Dale

Chapel-le-Dale is a tiny hamlet best known for St. Leonard’s Church where navvies and their families who died building the Settle-Carlisle railway line are buried. There are now a few b&b's in or near the hamlet. The Old Hill Inn has two letting bedrooms and is a splendid traditional pub with a reputation for good food. Accommodation can also be found at Ribblehead where the Station Inn offers b&b as well as a bunk barn. There is also a tradition of wild camping at the back of the Station Inn.

Ingleton

Four and a half miles from the route is Ingleton. It’s a popular tourist destination and there’s plenty of accommodation, cafes and shops if you need them. We don’t know of any bus service from Chapel-le-Dale to Ingleton and the nearest taxi firm is six miles away at Bentham. Tel 015242 62511.

Section Four: Dentdale

An ancient packhorse route leads around the flank of Whernside, all the way to the beautiful village of Dent. The option to leave the route and climb Yorkshire’s highest peak may prove irresistible. 

Dent

The first place you’ll find food or accommodation after leaving Chapel-le-Dale is Dent. It’s a beautiful village with a cobbled main street in one of the loveliest of all of the Dales. There are two pubs, b&bs, camping, cafes and shops in the village and a b&b and a bunkhouse just off the route about a mile and a half BEFORE you get to Dent. The Heritage Centre is packed with exhibits and information about life in the dale and is well worth a visit. Dent’s a lively village with a lot going on. Check the notice board for events like Dentdale Show and the Dentdale Music and Beer Festival but don’t forget there will be pressure on accommodation at these times.

Sedbergh

Sedbergh (pronounced Sedber) is England’s Official Book Town so if you enjoy browsing in new, rare and second hand bookshops this is the place to stay. The town offers a choice of accommodation including camping and the narrow Main Street and cobbled yards are worth exploring – check out the Sleepy Elephant shop, rumour has it that Bonnie Prince Charlie hid in the chimney! If you’ve got time it’s a short walk (about a mile) to the Friends Meeting House at Brigflatts, one of the oldest Quaker buildings in England. Sedbergh now also hosts the famous Sedbergh FolkFest (formally the Dent Folk Festival).

Section Five: Howgill Fells

The route crosses the entire Howgill Fell range in a breathtaking six mile ridge walk. These steep sided, round topped, velvety hills are unique in character and separate the mountains of Lakeland from the rolling Pennine hills. 

Cautley

If you decide to take the alternative route from Sedbergh to Newbiggin-on-Lune you will pass the Cross Keys Temperance Inn at Cautley. It’s a 400 year old National Trust property that is famous for its ham and eggs. There are two letting bedrooms but don’t forget – it’s still a Temperance Inn – no bar but you can bring your own!

Newbiggin-on-Lune

Newbiggin-on-Lune has accommodation but no pub or shop. The garden centre café serves light meals and snacks.

Ravenstonedale

A detour of about a mile takes you into the pretty village of Ravenstonedale which has two pubs, b&bs and a little shop. There’s also camping nearby.

Section Six: Eden Valley

After the isolated splendour of Sunbiggin Tarn is reached, a vast and unexpected expanse of limestone pavement is suddenly revealed at Great Asby Scar. Finally, after a lovely beckside ramble through the lush Eden Valley, the red sandstone of Appleby Castle comes into view. 

Great Asby

Six and a half miles from Newbiggin-on-Lune is Great Asby. It’s a pleasant place to take a break and you can pick up a guide to the village in the church. The village pub is The Three Greyhounds. They do bar meals but check their website for opening times as they don’t always open at lunchtime in the winter. 

Hoff

Three and a half miles from Great Asby the route crosses a road by the New Inn at Hoff. Alas, the pub is closed at the moment and up for sale.

Appleby-in-Westmorland

At last. Appleby is the end of the route. You might want to make your way straight to the station to head home on the Settle – Carlisle line. Otherwise take some time to explore Appleby. The little town has a charming old fashioned friendly feel to it and there are plenty of places to stay and to eat except in early June when the Horse Fair comes to town.