Dales High Way for 3rd time
Hi - completed walk in reverse - Appleby to Saltaire - on 19th
July so a very warm walk. We stayed b and bs for accommodation,
which had been arranged by Brigantes, together with luggage
transportation. An excellent service.
It was lovely to see D of E participants out on the fells.
First time we have walked the Howgills without mist - great
views. The only adjustments we made to the walk were a) walked
round Ingleborough via Selside and b) caught the bus from Skipton
to Ilkley after walking from Cracoe to Skipton. Both alterations
were rational risk assessments considering our age and the
heat/humidity. The third adjustment was to take The Pennine
Bridleway from Stainforth to Malham - just to add variety this
being our third time.
We may have walked the High Way 3 times, but each time has
been a different route and under differing conditions.
Agree with previous walker about cattle near reservoir - able
to avoid by skirting the path and the path at Dent - rocky, tree
roots but unable to see footing as very overgrown.
Another enjoyable week in the countryside.
Thank you again for devising this walk.
Chris replies: Well done, it's certainly
been hot conditions for walking. It's lovely to read about people
personalising the route with variations to suit themselves and
It's my fault...
From: Gerard Whittle
Hi - Just completed a version of the highway over 4+ days.
A limited window meant rapid progress was essential!
I used the guidebook as my sole guide. Mistake! As
clearly stated, OS maps are essential! I'd checked and
compared before setting off and all looked okay... but ultimately
I was often frustrated! I did not do some of the high stuff
- age and current fitness played a part!
I did however come across a number of gems that added to my
enjoyment of the walk:
Level grass camping spot on Roman road near woodland before
Tea Wagon in layby at Gordale Scar
Knights Stainforth Campsite
Crummack Dale - Limestone Dale, Limestone pavement and access
to PWB with 2 ways to Ingleborough. (Selside and the
additional diversion has nothing to commend it unless Ribblehead
and beyond are your option.)
Fat Lamb Inn, above Ravenstonedale, did the best burger ever!
(Came from Cross Keys - Whilst taking low-level route due to
mist. Completely missed the normal path! Probably whilst
directing walkers from Temperance Inn car park!)
Greyhound Pub, Great Asby (see below)
Trail running shoes mean wet feet!
Cattle on the path from Hetton at the head of the reservoir.
(Cows, calves, bulls and bullocks! )
Riverside paths around Dent and Great Asby are overgrown.
After rain - or even early morning- full wets are a must.
Day 1: Travelling to Norwich station dropped glasses - frame
damaged, lens out - for a walk that demands attention to the
view! 08.55 Train cancelled. Arrive at Saltaire
14.15. Camped above Skipton on Roman Road - highly
recommended. (Originally intention before Sharp Haw also
Day 2: Stayed at Knights Stainforth Hall campsite.
Backpackers will always be accommodated without needing to book.
(£7). Meals and bar on site.
Day 3: Stayed in Dent - Laneside Campsite. (£10) Loads
of families and 3 motorbike groups... no issues. Met young
ladies doing LEJOG and teenage cyclists doing JOGLE.
Day 4: Greyhound Bunkhouse, Great Asby. Attached to the
pub... I thought that there was a site - it in Little Asby!
An amazing find! (£20) I had sole occupancy as well as good
food in the pub.
Day 5: 8 miles to the station and a long journey home... 10.05
from Appleby, Norwich 20.15, Home 21.00
Would I recommend it? Not as is. Would I do it
again? Yes, with different adjustments. (And maybe slower...)
I love ridge walking - get high and stay high! I understand
the rationale of the original walk; people living locally
and planning a linear walk. There are climbs I see as
pointless - Addingham Moorside and out of Addingham, then Sharp
Haw, Tedious paths - Hetton to Gordale Scar, the
Selside link, Great Asby to Appleby.
Tony replies: Wow, that's quite a pace,
especially carrying camping gear. We would normally suggest at
least a week, but sometimes you have no choice. You definately
need an OS map if you are going to vary the route. I didn't know
about the bunkhouse at the Three Greyhounds at Great Asby -
that's very useful to know. Well done, and many thanks for the
Incorrect topic on forum: Week long parking at Saltaire 19 Aug
I am about to start my Dales Highway and was looking for a
place to park my car. I phoned the nr mentioned in the topic from
19 Aug (Week long parking at Saltaire) to arrange my parking for
It turns out that this service no longer exists. At that car
park on the corner of Carline Street and Victoria Road, you can
no longer park your car for a week for £15. You can park your car
there, but you have to pay via RingGo and pay the normal tariff.
IIs it possible to place a note on the forum to rectify this
parking topic? Many thanks in advance.
Kind regards, Annemieke
Chris & Tony reply:- Hi Annemieke, many
thanks for letting us know about this, as we were unaware of the
change, which came into force a fortnight ago.
You would now need to book using the RingGo App and pay the full
rate for the week, or by phoning them if you don't have a
smartphone. The charges are £5 per day, so that will cost
£35 for the week! I understand the App is failrly easy to use,
and you can book for the duration, and you can add time later if and
Date: 16 August 2020
Me and a friend wild-camped the Dales High Way over a period
of eight days, nine nights. This allowed for a moderate pace with
time to stop and enjoy the view, take pictures and find decent
camp sites, and also to start the long return journey to south
England early in the morning. We very roughly followed the 8 day
itinerary in the guide, obviously stopping well short of the
villages or towns mentioned.
This was true wild camping – leaving no trace, lightning no
fires, staying out of sight of buildings. Setting up late and
leaving early. We used bivvy bags, and also a tarp once or twice.
We met a few others doing the same route, but none doing it like
A few key things that might be helpful to others doing a
- We stocked up at shops in Skipton, Settle and
Sedbergh, carrying enough food for 2-3 days from each one. While
it's hardly ultralight camping food, at our moderate pace the
extra weight was fine. Pockets of ready-cooked lentils and cous
cous, peanut butter and pittas etc were all easy enough to find.
The worst we had to do was get some cans of beans at Settle.
Again, this isn't the Cape Wrath Trail so no real problem there.
(List of shops plus distances between them
here). We marked each major shop in the route guide (possibly
something to consider adding to future guides?) Dent also has a
small shop that is not readily Google-able, but it has limited
stock and I wouldn't rely on it.
- Settle has camping gas available at both the outdoors
shop and Practically Everything. Settle in general had everything
we needed – a Boots, a Co-op, an outdoors shop, a cafe – in a
small area on or just by the route.
- The moorland and fells tended to have freshwater becks; the
limestone areas tended to have springs near the lower reaches.
Check your OS Map. We ran everything that looked safe through a
Sawyer Micro water filter (very slow but reliable!) to be sure
and came to no harm. Occasionally we stocked up on water lower
down for a more discreet and breezier (=few midges) campsite
- We found the OS maps OL2 and OL19 indispensable for
navigation, finding places to camp and water sources. (Obviously
this misses a significant part of the beginning of the route!) If
you're used to map reading you may find it easier than following
written descriptions. The waymarking is helpful, but it's
impossible to rely on it.
- While midges generally weren't a problem, don't camp on the
lower reaches of moorland unless you want to risk Highlands-level
midge hell! We got totally eaten alive one night.
- Beware of lightning and read up on it. Check the weather
forecast. There are huge wide areas throughout the route where
you can easily be the tallest thing around (especially in the
Howgill Fells and on the huge limestone pavements), and being
caught walking or in a shelter when lightning is striking nearby
can be much more unnerving and objectively dangerous than you
- You can do this vegan; Cafe Sopra in Settle cooked me up a
delicious vegan breakfast on request; we also stopped at
Steep&Filter in Skipton. Otherwise I found enough in the shops
- Walk the Ingleborough area on a weekday to dodge most of the
three peaks crowds
We did camp at the High Laning campsite in Dent for one night;
their washing and drying facilities were invaluable for giving us
fresh stuff for the final legs. Get some 20p, 50p, & £1 coins.
Thanks for your work assembling this beautiful trail; you get
a real sense of the trail unfolding into new and wondrous
landscapes. It kept everything feeling fresh and new.
Many thanks, Jacob.
From: Mary Hockaday
Date: 10 August 2020
A friend and I greatly enjoyed the Dales High Way a couple of
weeks ago, via Brigantes. We did Ilkely to Appleby in six days
The route guide was excellent and indispensable. But I thought
I'd pass on the one problem we had, on p.28 of the 2013 edition
(but no different in the more recent edition which my friend
had). After Crummack we climbed up to the brow and turned right –
box 3. But for love nor money we could not find the major left
fork in box 4. We went back and forth between Long Scar and
the PBW waymark. We saw the crumbled wall but no unmarked 'easy,
clear, dry track' was to be found. In the end we went on
and up to Ingleborough via the alternative route via Sulber Pot.
I hope this may be useful. Meanwhile, thank you for
establishing such a wonderful route, it's a wonderful mixture of
everything the Dales has to offer.
Chris & Tony reply:- Hi Mary, Very glad to
hear you had a good time on the trail.
With regards to the "missing path", you will not be
surprised that quite a few people have found this spot tricky,
mainly because there are numerous crossing tracks and little
I can assure you that the "missing track" does exist (see
photo attached). If you come up from Crummack along the Dales
High Way track, you reach the crossing bridleway (called Long
Lane, part of the Pennine Bridleway) by a Pennine Bridleway (PBW)
marker post. Turning right, after 200 metres or so, there is a
2nd PWB marker post and the Dales High Way track forks off left
here. It is actually an old turbary road (peat-cutters road).
If you continue instead along Long Lane you eventually
pass a 3rd PWB post at a point where another track from Crummack
joins Long Lane. This forks off from the Dales High Way track
just above Crummack. Is it possible you might have followed this
one? Easily done.
None-the-less, you did exactly the right thing and joined
the track which runs up from Horton towards Ingleborough (the
Yorkshire Three Peaks route) and got back on A Dales High Way, so
The PBW marker posts are the only signage at this point,
and these have a habit of disappearing on occasion, so can't be
relied upon. That's why we've added the GPS references to these
points in the latest edition of the Route Guide.
Many thanks for letting us know about this.
Dog friendly stiles?
Hi. Can you advise on how dog friendly this trail is? My
Labrador is too heavy to lift over styles and I wonder what
manner of styles we might encounter, particularly along the
Feisor to Malham stretch. Many thanks for any info you can
Chris replies: There are a variety of stile
types on A Dales High Way and the Route Guide shows you where the
stiles/gates are located.
In some areas - the Howgill Fells for
example - there are none but in other sections, although they are
gradually being replaced by walkers' gates,some remain. These
include steep ladder stiles, squeeze stiles, wooden step stiles
and step stiles in the dry stone walls.
In the section you mention there are a couple of ladder
stiles that you won't be able to get over with your dog I'm
afraid and some tricky step stiles on the riverbank between
Settle and Stainforth.
From: Margaret Whitehead
We walked the Dales High Way for the first time in July 2018.
It was a great experience - lovely scenery in great weather.
We enjoyed it so much that we returned in July 2019, that is
literally returned. We walked from Appleby to Saltaire.
This return journey also gave us an opportunity to try some of
the alternative routes. The cloud was down over the
Howgills so we took the lower level route from Ravenstonedale to
Sedbergh. We still saw many great views.
Also we stayed at Ribblehead rather than Chapel le Dale and
approached Ingleborough from Park Hill and the Simon Fell Ridge.
A lot less adrenaline inducing than the steep ascent/descent of
Ingleborough with time to enjoy the fantastic panorama.
Would like to add the route guidebook was excellent.
Also there seemed to be more way markers on our second trip.
Walking the Way
From: Dave Harrison
29 May 2019
In company with a group organised by HF Holidays, I recently
walked the Dales High Way. There were a couple of hail showers
on the first day, but the weather was otherwise excellent. The
result was a highly enjoyable nine days worth of walking.
To see my photos, visit
Dales High Way - July 2018 Blog
10 Feb 2019
Hi, In July 2018 I completed my DHW trek, a truly magnificent
Thank you to all who work hard to create, maintain and promote
this path, including of course those running the dedicated
website, which was an endless source of knowledge and inspiration
during the planning stages
I am happy to share my diary/blog of the trip on your forum
and if this in any way encourages others to undertake this
wonderful walk then great – they will not be disappointed!
The link to my site is:
Week long parking at Saltaire
From: Tony G (Friends)
19 Aug 2018
Following the inquiry sent by Alan C. (see below) abut parking
his car for a week in Saltaire, he later emailed us to tell us
he'd found a way to use the small local car park at the junction
of Caroline St. and Victoria Road, right in the centre of
Saltaire. He told us:
"I contacted Bradford Met District Council and they issued me
with a parking permit (£15.00 Mon thru Fri, no charge on a Sunday)
to display in my car in the Caroline Street car park which is 20m
from Victoria Hall and a 15 min walk from Shipley railway
We were unaware of this facility, so we contacted Bradford
Council for information. Stephen Hook, Parking Services
Supervisor, told us:
"There are two options for a week long parking at this
particular car park.
A waiver permit can be issued for
Monday to Saturday (£3.00 per day), the car park is free on a
Sunday. Please telephone 01274 434300.
payment can be made by telephone, the instructions for this
procedure are on the side of the pay and display machine."
So there you have it. Many thanks to Alan for sorting that out.
We've had a number of enquiries on similar lines, so this will
prove very useful. It should be born in mind, though, that this is
an unsecured car park, so obvious security precautions should be
UPDATE Aug 2020: This Info is now out of
date. Please see Forum item of Aug 2020 for latest information on
The Dales High Way walk 25th June to 2nd July 2018
From: Alan C
12 July 2018
Can you help? We are embarking on the DHW this Sunday from
Saltaire so looking for somewhere safe to park the car for 6 days as
close as possible to the start/Shipley station. We will be returning
on the train from Appleby to Shipley on the train on Friday.
Chris replies: There's no long term
parking I know of in Saltaire or Shipley and Saltaire village is
residents only. Shipley railway station has a car park but I
don't know if you could leave a car all week. You could try
yourparkingspace.co.uk . If you are staying the
night before you start walking you could try and make a deal with
the accommodation provider. Settle offers week long tickets in
Greenfoot Car Park if you were able to drive to Settle then catch
the train to the start.
I hope you have a great walk.
The Dales High Way walk 25th June to 2nd July 2018
From: Terry Yarrow
5 July 2018
I am 70 this year and I have just returned from a week
backpacking an 'embellished' version of The Dales High Way in the
hottest weather we have had for many years! Not a drop of rain,
and dry paths all the way :) ! I decided to go because walking
friends had told me that it was one of the best walks they had
done - I definitely wouldn't disagree!
Just wanted to say that it was an amazing walk, with awesome
scenery and spectacular, breathtaking views, as well as some
really lovely villages and hamlets. With most long distance
footpaths, there are usually parts that are not so good but with
this walk, I don't think there was a bad part anywhere and I
enjoyed all of it. If I was nitpicking, I'd say that short parts
of the last day were a bit overgrown but that wasn't a problem
apart from the fact that I was wearing shorts. I used the small
guidebook which proved to be very good for 99% of the route - I
just needed to refer to my OS Map Ap on a handful of occasions to
check/correct my position where paths were a bit vague.
My 'embellishments' were to adapt the route so that I could
climb Hope Hill, climb Pen Y Ghent, Ingleborough and Whernside
(the last mentioned I climbed on the day there were a thousand
people going up), visit Hull Pot, explore Gordale Scar, take in
Malham village, walk via the Ribblehead viaduct, climb Arant Haw,
and sometimes an extra mile or two to reach a campsite. This
meant that my total distance walked came to 120 miles in 7 days.
Oh, and I made sure I had enough time at the start and finish to
explore Saltaire and Appleby! Naturally, the train ride back was
a big bonus too :) !
I confess that although I am a 'purist' backpacker, with the
extreme heat (combined with dodgy knees), I did resort to using
Sherpa for a couple of the days and the service they provided was
excellent. This was particularly necessary on the Ingleborough
day as I don't think my knees would have taken the steep descent
into Chapel Le Dale with a 35lb pack up!
The campsites along the way were all good and I met some
lovely people on the way - lots of walkers and runners as well as
locals who were always helpful.
Thanks for putting the walk together, it was most enjoyable,
even though challenging, especially in the unusually hot
I have a blog and I have already posted an initial entry on
there regarding the walk. I will be putting up some full blog
posts detailing my experiences as soon as I have processed the
pictures (I am a photographer as well as a blogger). My blog can
be found at https://thedorsetrambler.com.
Thanks again for an amazing walk! With my best wishes
Terry Yarrow (AKA The Dorset Rambler - not the walking
organisation, that's my blog name :) )
Our walk on the Dales High Way
From: Laraine and Andrew
21 Aug 2017
We have just finished our very enjoyable walk on the DHW.
We took 6 days. 3 days using the train from our house in
Settle and the final 3 days from Ribblehead to Appleby,
backpacking camping at Sedbergh and Ravenstonedale. Got to
Appleby just in time to get enjoy a celebratory pint at the
Midland hotel before catching our train back to Settle.
Thanks for a great walk.
From: David Hall
15 July 2017
Hi I have posted a message on the face book page.
I am looking for a camp site near or on the route at Sedburgh.
I have been on the tourist information web site and
Howgills Bunk Barn charges £20 per night for a back pack tent
Can you post this on the blog
Dales High Way Walk - April 2017
From: David Chippendale
9 May 2017
I walked the Dales High Way between 21st and 27th April this
year. What a superb route, full of interest and contrast.
I enjoyed every section of it.
The path through Trench Wood and Shipley Glen at the start was
a delightful surprise, I loved the way the path gave you great
views from high above the towns of Ilkley, Skipton, Settle and
Appleby before dropping down to them, and enjoyed the contrast
between the high moors, the valleys, the limestone scenery, the
ruggedness of Ingleborough and the softness of the Howgills.
A real highlight was seeing Ingleborough covered in snow –
fortunately the day after I'd gone over it.
My only disappointment was not being able to get the train
back down to Saltaire due to the Northern train strike, however,
I'm planning to head back to Appleby after walking the Dales Way
later this month to complete the experience.
My only suggestion for improvement would be to have some sort
of plaque or marker to denote the official start and end of the
trail. Keep up the good work.
Dales High Way - April 2017
From: Maurice Walker
10 Apr 2017
Just completed The Dales Highway on Saturday 8th April 2017. A
great walk. The weather has been perfect, with some great views
and met some great people along the way. I have a nice
certificate from the tourist information centre. Really helpful
people. The deputy mayor ran me into Penrith as northern train
strike. Many thanks to all. Had a great pint to celebrate at the
301 miles pub on Carlisle Station.